A Year in Grenoble

I'm a junior at Arizona State and majoring in French and Political Science. I'm spending my third year abroad, in Grenoble, France. You can read about the city here. This site will chronicle my adventures...

Thursday, February 23, 2006

Allez St. Eynard

I think this might be part of the village of St. Eynard, tucked away in the mountains (but it's only about 30 minutes from Grenoble). We began our hour-long trek here.


Well, we would begin it soon.


As soon as I pushed Tarek into the snow (honestly, he pushed me first).


We climbed and hiked and climbed and then suddenly over the crest of a slope, we saw... this. Breathtaking.


The city of Grenoble (and a few others, like Meylan, St Martin d'Heres, Gieres, Echirolles, Coroc). This is where I live!


And this is me, sporting an oh-so sexy headband and weeks of unshaven scruff.


A mysterious cave we investigated. Inside, we found loads of icicles and thus had to...


Play pirates!


I played a very wild-eyed pirate.


The crew, L-R: Matthias, Ben, Tarek, moi, Rachel, Antonio and Francesco. Yes, everyone is pretty much from the country that their name sounds like.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Happy Birthday Jin

My friend Jin, playing it cool after certain people who will remain nameless conspired to throw his birthday cake in his face as soon as he finished blowing out the candles.


All was well, though, especially after he started opening his presents - the best one was definitely the Allen Iverson jersey.


One of the people in this picture is different from all the others. Can you spot which one?


After Jin's party, we headed to another dorm for, yes, another party. A shopping cart (they're everywhere, honestly, it's so bizarre; they're like portable urban ornaments) was enlisted to transport the extra supplies, but Rachel slowed down the progress by leaping aboard. Her hijack attempt was foiled, though, and we soon proceeded.


Along the way we came across this amazing sight. If you've ever wondered how many Spaniards can fit in one car, count the number of figures in this picture...


...and this one.


Rachel, Tarek and I went back to my room around 3:30am to relax and chat. We were going to eat chocolate and watch a movie, but something happened.


Yes, I fell asleep. The next morning they told me that I simply nodded off in the middle of talking and showing pictures. I have no idea how I could have possibly comfortably slept like this. I moved to my bed sometime in the night, but my left leg was sore for a few hours after I woke up.

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Le temps passe trop vite

I'm living in an alternate universe where I'm guaranteed to have the most fun of my life, but the catch is that time passes ten times as fast as normal. Last Friday evening was a fantastic birthday party for my Korean friend Jin. On Saturday afternoon I went hiking with several people from my dorm. Early Sunday morning, Matthias, Jenny, Johanna and I went to Torino and loved every moment. Yes, we saw not one, but two Olympic events. Yes, it was incredible. We got back to Grenoble a little after midnight Tuesday morning. I made it through my classes and am now getting ready for the weekly trip to Le Tord Boyaux. Tomorrow is the last full day in Grenoble for a while since we leave Thursday evening for Geneva, and then Friday morning for Budapest. The itinerary still hasn't been nailed down... and we prefer it that way. Here are a few pics of the aforementioned events; I'll add the full series tomorrow!

This is the inside of the Oval Lingotto where we watched speed skating.


There was a strong snowstorm when we exited, but this pic barely does it justice! I foolishly only had sneakers on, and cheap thin ones at that, so it was a painful few kilometers back to Matthias' faithful Opel.


Pleasant combination of old and new.


One of the main Torino parks.


Johanna and I in Oulx where we watched the freestyle aerials competition before heading back to Grenoble.


An amazing view from Saturday's hike in Fort du St Eynard.


Yannick, Rachel and I on top of the world.


The amazing Korean meal... my first time with Korean food, but definitely not the last.


Those crazy Koreans.


Something hot was happening here.

Friday, February 17, 2006

Eastern Europe, Part II

Everyone I've talked to who's ever visited it has raved incessantly about the city... and so I finally succumbed to the temptation. Next week's destination? Budapest. The university break is pleasantly long, so excursions to Vienna, Austria, and Ljubljana, Slovenia, are also being considered. Next time I'll try to hit Belgrade, Bratislava, Bucharest and Zagreb. So many choices, so little time!

Glaciers, caves and Swedes

We took a 40 minute ride on an old train car up to the top of a mountain on the north end of Chamonix, just barely making it on board before it started to chug uphill.


At the top, we were greeted with some marvelous sights!


I'm not sure how large the glacier is, but you can see it begin in the valley basin here. It's much, much larger than it appears and if you look hard, you might see tiny black specks - skiers! We considered trying to ski it, but decided not to after learning that it was highly recommended to have an experienced guide, in order to avoid the deep crevasses... the 120-feet deep crevasses.


Don't go chasing frozen waterfalls.


The whole crew!


From the top, we took a cable car down to a man-made ice cave. It's actually re-constructed annually since each year the glacier's center moves 90 meters and its' sides 45 meters. The current cave is in the middle; you can see last year's cave to the left and next year's to the right.


Not quite the best English translation, but we got the point.


Sam keeping it real.


The ice is eating my arm!


The cave's shimmering ceiling.


It really wasn't very deep, but became remarkably chillier the farther in we went.


The beautiful but barren frozen landscape.


Tiny skiers peering into previous caves.


Back in Chamonix, Rachel telling secrets.


Isabelle looking quintessiantially Swedish.

Wednesday, February 15, 2006

Freaky Flumet

Friday night, Rachel, Sam and I drove to Flumet to see our Swedish friends Lina and Isabelle. Here Lina's singing with her band. It was quite an enjoyable performance... and she came and stood with us during her breaks.


We were all happily reunited, and the joyful spectacle must've also cheered the jovial Frenchman in the back.


Flumet is a peculiar little place full of peculiar little people. It is most certainly not a tourist town and that sad fact leaves the unhappy townspeople with nothing to do but drink and inbreed. I suggest avoiding it at all costs. Exhibit A: the fellow wearing the USA jacket was a lecherous, bug-eyed old man who tried to grope every female in sight. Lina's friend Gustav (more on him later) is keeping an eye on him here. We were really the only sane ones in the entire bar. I've never met a larger group of unrelated rude, unintelligent and backwards people.


Isabelle is either trying to escape the groper or dancing atop a table.


This picture illustrates fairly well just how massive Gustav is. He embodied Sweden. Completely. Tall, blond, shy but friendly, expert at every nordic sport.

Monday, February 13, 2006

Talk about impulse

I was just about to buy tickets to Barcelona for mid-March when my friend Matt reminded me that March 17 was St. Patrick's Day. Checked easyJet, found flights that would let me miss minimal amount of class... and bought a round-trip from Geneva to Barcelona March 15 to March 20 for $113.04 USD.

Total time, from Matt asking, "you sure you dont want to go to ireland for st pattys?," to receipt of confirmation e-mail: 3 minutes, 24 seconds. Thanks, Matt!

Monday, February 06, 2006

Pictures from the past week

Oh, there's another strike tomorrow. This time it'll be students protesting new work contract regulations. Nobody knows what the extent of it will be, but it probably won't be too severe. Last week, Monsieur Guichard shared a revelation with the class: the Grenoble city administration is firmly in control of the Socialist party, and St. Martin d'Heres and Gieres, sites of the university campus, are two of the last remaining communes in France still under control of... the Communist party. No, I'm not joking. Once I learned that, a giant "Ah, I understand now" sign flashed in my head. The inefficiency, the apathy, the sorry condition of the dorms and classrooms - it's all so clear now! My Contemporary American History prof is rabidly anti-capitalist, but in spite of the collectivist surroundings, the Economist keeps me in Adam Smith's grasp.

Here are a bunch of random pictures from the past week:

Laura, Rachel and I somehow acquired three mugs from Couche-Tard after being treated rather rudely.


If I find who wrote this...


Culprit discovered.


Last week we went sledding in the Chamrousse mountains. The view was incredible.


The sleds went frighteningly fast... I actually ended up hitting a caution net, bending a support pole in half and catapulting over the net into the 'danger zone.' Luckily, my injuries were minimal.


Moi.


Christine and Rachel.


This is what happens when your hat has a five-foot long tail.


Bringing the sleds back up the hill was very difficult because we kept falling through the snow, almost up to our hips. Behind me you can see the net that I crashed into. It drops off pretty steeply right after that.


Beautiful.


For Laura's second-to-last night in Grenoble, we went to Restaurant Bombay and had some of the best Indian I've ever had. I've got to start researching Indian cuisine options back home.


Everyone seems to smile a lot here.


After our meal, we were given a bowl of... this. There's aniseed mixed in and it's supposed to freshen your breath, but it just made our hands sticky.


On our way back, we discovered quite possibly one of the coolest cars ever. The '75' on the plate indicates it's from the Parisian region.


Oasis! We were frighteningly close and I ended up dropping back a few meters because the crowd was so out-of-control. I finally bought replacement jeans, and I'm dreaming of all the cool things I could make from the old ones if I had any arts and crafts skills. If.


(That previous shot was Liam Gallagher, by the way, and this is Noel, his older brother. I think.)


Yes, we were close enough to count Liam's chest hair.


The Souchette slope where I spent most of my time getting acquainted with the hard snow covering the hard ice covering the hard ground.


I don't know how I remained upright long enough for this picture to be taken.


Silvia was really much better on skis than I was on my board.


Rachel's Scottish boyfriend Cameron came to visit for the weekend. I almost had to use two hands to heft that glass, but we had an awesome time -- and I brought back the vintage fall semester scarf. Thanks, Mom!


Watching the France-Scotland rugby match in the Chamrousse (we went sledding again yesterday). Scotland won, much to the chagrin of the cocky French barman.


My camera really can't take night pictures well, but this picture gives just a hint of how beautiful the setting sun lit up the rising sea of clouds.


Last night we had raclette at La Ferme a Dede, one of my favorite restaurants in Grenoble. There's a red-hot iron rod underneath that bronze shield; it slowly heats up the cheese and makes it drip onto the waiting potatoes below. You can then add various meats, bread and salad to create a delicious, gooey ensemble.


On our way back to the dorms, we spotted an entire outfit of clothing abandoned on a corner -- either Frosty melted, or someone was storing their work clothes in a rather hazardous location.